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A New Ice Cream Parlor/Bakery? I Have a Better Idea

slow baked apples

Awesome. Just perfect.

On a local food forum which shall remain unnamed, Brian Doyle asks:

What if… There was a little cafe that is a Jenni’s ice cream outlet right here in Cleveland? And that place also served the most amazing fresh made to order hot doughnuts. Along with other awesome pastries and great coffee/bevs/etc with just a couple savory options. IE: wrap, soup, salad.

I am craving both Jenni’s salty caramel and a great fresh doughnut with chocolate ganache right now and I want to indulge. Also a nice strong dark French press coffee with lots of cream.

Whadya think?

First, Cleveland? Sure, I’ll check it out. Medina? Not so much. No offense. It’s just a little far. Jeni’s? I can get Jeni’s at Bar Cento. And I can go to Rosati’s and East Coast for custard and get a veritable cornucopia of ice cream at the supermarket. Sure, I can only choose from about four different flavors at Bar Cento but they change regularly. “Amazing fresh made to order hot doughnuts along with other awesome pastries?” Well, awesome is awesome but there’s an awful lot of  “awesome” pastries in Cleveland. I’ll treat any new bakery with extreme skepticism.

But the chef who offers to sell me fresh, quality pudding at 8pm? I’ll be first in line. Pudding article in the Times.

In New York, I ate at ChickaLicious. I had a three course dessert tasting menu that was perfectly sized even after a fairly extavagant dinner.They were featured in a New York Times article examining the broader phenomenon of dessert focused restaurants. In my year end review, you’ll remember that one of the prognosticators fortold the end of this trend. I’m not sure I’d miss most of the restaurants mentioned in that article.

Across the street, the same ownership has Dessert Club.  I’m looking forward to trying Dessert Club and judging from their concept, I would be disappointed to see it close. Apparently, the idea was to serve pudding but they reconsidered the viability of a pudding store and expanded the concept to include cupcakes, cookies and a small selection of other desserts. On a pair of recent visits to New York, I ate at DessertTruck. I had the slow baked apples and cinnamon (above) and also the hot chocolate. These desserts were as good as any desserts I’ve had here in Cleveland. Or there in New York, for that matter. And they were served out of the side of a truck in case that wasn’t clear from their name.

Soft serve is newly trendy in New York. I haven’t heard much recently about this rice pudding but it completes a concept that I have and that occurred to me when I read Chef Doyle’s question. What these foods have in common is their simplicity. That simplicity and their familiarity give them to a power to affect us on an uncommonly deep level.

Seriously? I want to do sick, sick things with that pudding.

Seriously? I want to do sick, sick things with that pudding.

I feel like it’s almost sacrilegious to turn to marketing and economics. These things can mostly be made in batches without cutting corners. With portfolios plummeting, people will turn to pudding over sophisticated, sculpted desserts. Of course, I think any time is a good time for pudding.

Update: Since I started this post and saved it as a draft, the conversation on the forum has evolved a little. Now, the discussion is about a franchise of Fractured Prune, perhaps in the West Side Market. Fractured Prune makes donutes fresh to order. I see that as competition with the crepe guy who also sells “leige” waffles. I like those waffles. Donuts at Fractured Prune have an awful lot of ingredients. Beyond a half dozen ingredients, anything added to a donut is basically intended to maximize commercial viability and not flavor, right? I’m not a baker but that’s my intuition. I’d be more excited if there seemed to be a dedication to sourcing quality, natural ingredients which is something I do sense at the creperie. None of the ingredients individually is a deal-breaker for me so I’ll still be interested in trying it out even if I’m not quite as excited as I otherwise might be.

Update 2: I need to publish this post before it becomes sentient. A forum poster visited the Fractured Prune. They fry with trans-fatty oils.

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